Wednesday, May 27, 2026

Notes about drying filament

 

CNC kitchen on drying with desiccant- https://www.cnckitchen.com/blog/cyo43tzz88uqge65xgwz0wv8yvv3rs


https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/q4ynPjmASl 

This is everyone's monthly reminder that "Hygroscopic" and "Hydrophilic" are two different classes of material.


Hygroscopicity is a mechanical process and does not involve bonds that need to be broken. PLA filaments are hygroscopic, as are most thermoplastics. Think of it like a sponge soaking up water - it's just entering voids in the material.


Hydrophilicity is a chemical process that involves bonds that need to be broken. Nylon is hydrophilic, as is polycarbonate (slightly).


Both are important, as non-hydrophilic plastics like PETG and PLA can have strongly hygroscopic structures introduced by additives and the process of extrusion.


Heat is not required to reduce the water content of hygroscopic plastics, but it accelerates the process by increasing the vapor pressure of trapped water.


Heat is required to reduce the water content of hydrophilic plastic filaments. Bonds have to be broken.


No condescension is intended, it's tangled in a lot of jargon and is a bit of a nightmare to get clear info on.


( Fan, N. X. (2008). Mechanics of moisture for polymers: Fundamental concepts and model study. 9th. Int. Conf. - IEEE, 22, 1–14. https://doi.org/10.1109/esime.2008.4525043


Sperling, L. H. (2005). Introduction to Physical Polymer Science. John Wiley & Sons. )




https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/1ejli6Ju34   Hydrolysis causes irreversible polymer damage. You can dry it out a few times and not notice much difference. Performance degrades with every hydration and drying cycle, some H20 bonds on polymer surfaces, and dried filament has higher surface area. After around 5 years PLA stored in atmospheric humidity will become too brittle to print with, no matter how many times it's been dehydrated. Keep dry filament dry, or dry it then print it fast.



https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/8DG0zSL6Sf


Hi, I am a polymer chemist, and can shed a bit of light here. None of this is to say that the state of the filament isn't a contributor, or even the main contributor, to the problem, but there are legitimate chemical changes too. Water causes hydrolysis in the PLA backbone, which reduces the molecular weight of the polymer. Generally, as molecular weight of a polymer increases, the mechanical properties increase with it, so if it is reduced, so are the mechanical properties. There are two major ways this can happen; slowly over time, as PLA is fairly polar and interacts with water, so it will take some up over time, and the second would be when you are actually printing (processing) the polymer. The increased temperature makes whatever water is there able to hydrolyze much more quickly, so even if the filament isn't actually hot long, it takes much less time to degrade the molecular weight. I honestly have no clue what proportion of the problem each of those "pathways" has, so am not sure which would be a more practical problem, the storage, or making sure it is dry before processing.


I do have an off the cuff explanation for why drying could make it more brittle too, though. While water can cause the covalent bond breakage in the PLA polymer, it can also act as a plasticizer(which is often a desirable thing, but not in this case since the "plasticizer" is also able to degrade the polymer). This means that, only when the water is still actually present, intermolecular interactions between the pla and water can make the plastic more flexible (decreasing the modulus). When OP removed the water, I'm guessing it shined a light on the degradation that had already happened. I don't think the OP made a mistake by drying their filament. If they run it through their heated nozzle, my guess is the water would just compound the issue at the extruder head, they just wouldn't know it until they either had issues printing or had a brittle product.


If you have any questions or need any clarifications let me know, I'm happy to explain as best I can!





Tuesday, October 8, 2024

Wipetower tempature fix when using multiple materials with the MMU

 Due to a bug (with a longstanding, updated PR) on the temp change happening after a filament swap instead of before it causing clogs when higher temp filament hits a cold nozzle, coupled with the difficulty building PrusaSlicer yourself, they've started pushing up their own builds/releases on their fork of Prusaslicer - lets hope that this PR gets merged into core soon so this workaround isn't required!


https://github.com/amatulic/PrusaSlicer/releases/tag/wipetower

MMU3 Gotcha with Octoprint!

 When setting up the MMU3, I forgot to (didn't realize that I need to) configure octoprint to see that my printer had more tools, so it was only printing in one color (and asking me to select it) instead of switching between the tools. - https://community.octoprint.org/t/error-t-command-was-suppressed-and-not-sent-to-printer/27155


Reverse Bowden

 Really good description of what a 'reverse bowden' setup is for a direct drive printer. - https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/english-forum-general-discussion-announcements-and-releases/reverse-bowden/ 


To understand what a reverse bowden is, first you need to understand what a regular bowden and direct drive are.

A bowden is a setup where the extruder drive motor is mounted in a fixed place on the frame of the printer. The flexible tube connecting the extruder drive motor to the hot-end and nozzle is referred to as a bowden tube. This tube constrains the length between the drive and the nozzle so when the drive pushes on the filament the force is applied to the hotend. This enforces that when length x is pushed through the drive, the same length x is pushed into the melt zone to have a controlled amount of melted filament pushed out of the nozzle. In this configuration, the only way to pull filament off the spool is by the extruder drive motor pulling on filament because it is presumed that you aren't moving the spool around during a print relative to where the frame of the printer is.

On a direct drive setup the extruder drive motor is mounted to the moving hot-end and nozzle. In these configurations the distance between the extruder drive motor and the hotend is fixed, usually around a couple inches in distance, and almost always in a rigid fixed straight path. (I don't know of any that aren't in a straight path, but I don't know every extruder out there including experimental extruders.) In this configuration, not only does the extruder drive motor pulling on the filament off the spool, but the motion of the extruder assembly can pull filament off the spool if it moves away from where the spool is. This can cause situations where the extruder assembly moves closer to the spool, essentially trying to push the filament back onto the spool. But because the spool won't rewind (unless you have a special rewinder type spool holder) this extra slack can allow a loop of filament to fall off of the spool, potentially causing tangles to happen with the loose filament on your spool holder.

The reverse bowden is one of many ways to mitigate the last issue in the previous paragraph. It is a bowden tube that is connected from the frame of the printer to the input of the extruder drive motor. This constrains the distance between the frame of the printer and the drive motor so the motion of the extruder assembly doesn't change the distance from the extruder assembly and the spool. Often if your direct drive printer doesn't have a reverse bowden then someone out there has designed a setup and you can download the bracket parts that fit on your printer from Thingiverse or similar sites to print them out yourself.

I've played with the idea of installing a reverse bowden on my i3 MK3S, but have yet to have a failure related to not having a reverse bowden, but then again I still use the spool holder that came with the printer so the spool is above the print area. This reduces the amount of potential tangle points along the filament feed path.

BTW, if you do go for the MINI, that is a bowden drive setup so there is no need to add a reverse bowden setup to it.

See my (limited) designs on:
Printables - https://www.printables.com/@Sembazuru
Thingiverse - https://www.thingiverse.com/Sembazuru/designs


Another description of reverse bowden - https://e3d-online.com/blogs/news/battling-bowden-tube-physics 

Search Reddit saved history

 Random useful link here - more and more of my reading lately has been sending things into the blackhole of 'saved' posts on reddit, and they don't even have a search bar! Stumbled on this page that lets you log in, and uses the API from the browser to fetch your history and make it searchable for you!


https://github.com/ahmed-zubair-1998/Saveddit

Wednesday, July 17, 2024

Misc 3d Printing references.

 Working on keeping track of a few interesting posts that I've found around the internet..

I'll be throwing together some links to random bits of information with respect to 3d printing - Links to reddit posts, printables/thingiverse/thangs links for future tracking, all because my personal notes and reddit histories are not very useful for tracking down information!



General 3d printing guides:

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer


How to change hot end - 3D printer model https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OzRAVkXjw3I


3d design guides

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hna4V7-FJ08


Drybox ideas that aren't on printables/thingiverse

https://3d-print-files.com/instruction-diy-filament-dry-box-the-anybox-v2/

https://www.builditmakeit.com/projects/3d-filament-drybox


Original Lack V2 Blogpost - https://blog.prusa3d.com/mmu2s-printer-enclosure_30215/ 



Controlling brim placement with prusaslicer -

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=12&v=0Zxl1WOJm90&embeds_referring_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F&source_ve_path=Mjg2NjY

 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dhsbMmosbLU&feature=youtu.be - https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/9FLv8rOtII


https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=0Zxl1WOJm90&t=12s&pp=2AEMkAIB - this one works, under channel slicer underground - https://m.youtube.com/@Swiss_Cheese.


Sequential bridging - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KBuWcT8XkhA


Untangle filament - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lE9LchCtKL4


Another untangle example - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/XCrq2cYtQu




More tangled filament discussion - https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/s7ndQly5ho


I need to go against the crowd here. This is not user error. I've had the same problem with eSUN's ePLA+ and PETG.


The issue is not tangled filament.The issue is that the spool was not loaded tidily. There was probably slack in the filament spool during the winding process. Normally, filament that will be extruded first are in the outer layers after winding. The slack during production allowed the filament strands to mix enough such that filament to be extruded later ended up in the outer layers, whereas filament extruded first ended up in the inner layers. During the packaging after the winding process of production, they pulled to tighten the filament around the spool, thus locking in this aberrant arrangement of filament around the spool.


The outcome is when you feed the filament into your extruder, you are pulling on untangled but buried filament. If there is not enough force to unbury the filament, it will fail to feed as in OP's post. For me, the unburying process unwound too much of the spool, leading to too much slack, causing filament getting stuck in the axle of my spool holder.


You can identify these problematic spools because out of the packaging, they are not neatly wound. I know this is not tangled filament, because I can feed an entire problem spool without once unloading it, if I keep fixing the problem by manually "unburying" the filament. And no, and the end of the spool there is not knot or crossing strands of filament.


https://www.reddit.com/r/FixMyPrint/s/GODhRnaQB9


Drying/ brittle filament : https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/8ehTVV0b02


PLA is very prone to hydrolysis - where the adsorbed water molecules literally cut up the long polymers of the plastic. Additives to PLA (silk/fibres/matte/etc) tend to accelerate this chemical breakdown.


If drying doesn’t bring it back to reasonable, it's likely they're hydrolysed to death and ready for the bin.


Connector settings - https://www.reddit.com/r/printablescom/s/bkTvskOE6f

How to orient boxes - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8NKVNwVaZU0

Overlapping layers between parts - 

Here is a way to make two imperfect pieces that interlock to not show light between them - commonly used for injection molded design, but can make nice 3D prints https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dhFhU7Nl_0



How to split an STL into parts in PrusaSlicer - https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/21777/prusaslicer-how-do-i-preserve-the-location-of-interlocking-parts-in-a-muliti  (found that after looking for an answer to this - https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1ec3e6a/comment/lexfa7g/ - https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-i3-mk3s-mk3-how-do-i-print-this-printing-help/overlapping-objects-in-prusa-slicer/ )


Information around multi-material printing with an MMU

https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/comments/1cm8knv/comment/l2za6gg/ - First, make sure you are in Advanced / Expert mode, these are considered Advanced settings.

Print Settings -> Multiple Extruders

In the "Extruders" section, you can set the extruder being used for various parts of the print and tower. "Wipe tower extruder" controls which one is being used for the outer wall of the tower.

-

You also must set the support distance to “0.0 (soluble)”, otherwise it gives a warning about not supporting multiple extruders with the wipe tower.

Of course this is exactly what you want, but if you don’t set the support gap to zero before assigning extruders, it looks like it doesn’t work.


TPU notes: 


To fix stringing: https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/cL6g0mgSZL


“ "Coasting" in PrusaSlicer


Cura has a very useful setting called "coasting" which tells the extruder to stop pushing out filament just before the end of its print move; this allows any ooze to become used in the print instead of becoming blobs and strings during the travel move. PrusaSlicer does not have this setting, but you can achieve a similar result with the following printer settings: set a non-zero retract length, enable "Wipe while retracting", then set the "Retract amount before wipe" to 100%. This will make the printer do all its retraction during the last bit of the print move, which roughly mimics the "coasting" ability of Cura, and it works very well for TPU, shown below. My retract length for this improvised "coast" setting was just 0.4mm. But also, calibrate your linear advance: mine is 0.2 for a 0.4mm brass Revo 6 nozzle. ”

Pause and insert pre-printed support- Tpu https://blog.prusa3d.com/10-tips-for-saving-filament-money-and-environment_71415/


Twisting filament 

https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/english-forum-original-prusa-i3-mk4-assembly-and-first-prints-troubleshooting/filament-twists-during-print/



Discussion around the S4 - adding connectors to den all 4 out one side - https://forum.prusa3d.com/forum/original-prusa-xl-tool-changer-user-mods-octoprint-enclosures-nozzles/sunlu-s4-setup/




https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/pNxdAG4T8J   Gcode to remove dwell - 



Adding nextruder to mk3.5 - https://www.reddit.com/r/prusa3d/s/KYPZ9C9ZKW



Edge curl / warping example with different bed temps - 

https://www.reddit.com/r/3Dprinting/s/QFSziaLl6L


Prevent warping - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iPZoDltS30A&pp=iggCQAE%3D&ra=m



Different warping video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wiSyyk2Nv-A